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Posts tagged ‘essays’

making sandwiches

I follow the road uphill and slither through the gap in the gate that marks its end. A deep rut runs down the middle of the wide trail, the remnant of a long-forgotten winter storm. After more than a year of drought, everything’s dry and the dust puffs up from under my wheels like an anemic dragon. The weather forecasters talk of El Niño and a heavy rain coming. But for now, the leaves hang brittle on the chaparral, the neck scruff of California’s coastal mountains, and it all feels like tinder ready to flame. — The Layers That Make The Ride.

dear surfing

toast_square-50

But then you get one and all that churning and cursing and shoving is forgotten in the smooth rush of the first drop down the wave’s face. Through the thin fiber-glass of a shortboard, you can sense the texture of the water under your feet. Every shift in balance, each flick of your ankle, every curl of your toes translates into movement. Come dance on the water, twist, turn, and float, weightless. — Surfing, A Love Story.