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Stuff & Things
by Jen on 22 January 2014
it was grey. and moody. and it looked way better than it was.
it wasn’t really even that rideable. but the kids didn’t care. aww, kids, i love your exuberance.
here’s a dude doing a top turn.
a bit messy.
looking for snacks.
the pensive, pre-surf walk down the beach.
wise one, waiting.
looking for trouble
nice dismout, the bulgarian judge approves.
exuberance. so much exuberance.
places to go
is that an island in your pocket
looks better than it is
random beach break
sandpipers are cooler than you are
yes that's an oil rig
If you are one of the world's best surfers, and contest results don't define you, what does? I interviewed Carissa Moore in a camper in a Ventura driveway. She told me about struggling with body image, winning world titles, and the time she considered walking away from contest surfing. You can read the story online now if you like. Thanks to @rissmoore10 for a candid, authentic interview. Link/bio. 💙
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